The Bus to Malakkappara and Valparai
The route to Malakkappara is as beautiful as a dream. Sandwiched between the breathtaking waterfalls and mountain ranges, the path is surrounded by spectacular bamboo forests, tea plantations and rock structures. We tag along with a bunch of regular travelers to Malakkappara to explore the less travelled rustic path.
We didn’t have to roam about much at Chalakkudy Bus stand searching for ‘Angel Dawn’, the lone bus to Malakkappara and Valparai town. The name on the board was clearly visible even in the darkness before dawning. Barring the minor damage on the front portion, the yellow-clad bus looked fine. As we entered the bus we saw passengers casting inquisitive glances on us. Ignoring the curious gazes we occupied the empty seats.
At about 6.30 am, the driver and conductor came and the bus started moving slowly through the sleepy Chalakkudy town. Jose Ettan, conductor of Angel Dawn, exchanged pleasantries with passengers while giving tickets. Having been with the bus service for the past six years, he knew each of them very well. That he knew even their boarding and alighting points surprised us.
We were perhaps the only passengers in the bus whose alighting point Jose Ettan did not know. After issuing tickets, he sat on the long seat in the front. To start up a conversation we joined him in the front row.
We were now far away from Chalakkudy town. Passing Dream World water theme park and date palm farm by Plantation Valley, we saw the enormous Chalakkudy River flowing on one side. The sun beams started slowly piercing through the thicket.
The bus was full and the passengers were familiar with each other. In one of the front seats, a lady sat amid several bundles of newspapers. She was Nebeesa, the newspaper woman of Malakkappara. The people of the high range town would eagerly wait for the newspaper she brought from Chalakkudy every day. After managing her first sale in the bus, she started stacking the newspapers into several bundles.
Meanwhile, we passed Thumboormuzhi Dam and Silver Storm theme park. Jibin, the serious-looking helmsman of Angel Dawn, was kind enough to stop and at times slow down the bus to help us capture the ravishing beauty of the place. As soon as we crossed Kannanguzhi Bridge, a thick green cover of dense forest greeted us on both sides of the road. En route we saw members of Forest Protection Council clad in green attires.
As we were engrossed in the stunning canvas of nature’s wonder, Jibin reminded us of those waiting for the bus and we resumed the journey.The mighty Athirappally waterfall was visible in the distant.
On reaching the check post of the Forest Department, Jose Ettan handed over a parcel to the officers stationed there. It was their breakfast bought from Chalakkudy.
We passed a small waterfall en route, which we heard was a treat to the eyes during rainy season.The next waterfall was in Vazhachal. Around five kilometers from Athirappally, we saw a bamboo structure on the roadside, which was the entrance to the famous waterfall. We could see the fragments of the falls gushing down through rocks and little forests. The bus stopped nearVazhachal school. A group of cheerful children came out to collect a container from Jose Ettan. We peeped out to see what it was and understood that the bus supplied milk to be given to students of the school.
As the bus left Pukalappara Power house,Nebeesa was all set with her carefully bundled packets of newspapers with the places of delivery written on them. Nebeesa would get down in the next stop. After that it was ‘ Angel Dawn’ which delivered all the newspapers.
As the journey progressed, an areca nut tree lay across the road, which some opined was the handiwork of some wayward elephants. We were excited at the possibility of such an elephant appearing in front of us anytime.
We were now at Puliyilappara, the only stopover on the way to have some refreshment. After tying the newspaper bundles with a rubber cycle tube and placing atop the engine box, Nebeesa alighted from the bus.
With no trace of a single vehicle in the whole vicinity, ‘Angel Dawn’ chugged along the scenic bamboo forest on both sides of the road. The next destination was the greenery-laden Vachumaram from where a few labourers from the Advivasi community boarded. Like other passengers, they were also usual travellers. Having no vacant seats to sit seemed to bother them little to continue with their chatters.
Along the road we saw elephant dung in many places. Jose Ettan said if we were lucky we would see elephants. We watched both sides carefully for a glimpse of the giant animal but in vain. After crossing the Anakkayam Bridge we saw a KSRTC bus coming opposite to us. It was the first ever bus that we saw on our journey so far. With much difficulty Jibin gave way to the bus because the road was very narrow.
Malakkappara was 25 km away from there. We resumed the journey through bamboo forest again. The Adivasi labourers had already gotten off the bus. We had ahead of us three hairpin bents.
On our way through Ambalappara Dam, we saw a Nilgiri Langur amid the woods. A person with a bagful of fish caught from the dam tried to sell his catch among the passengers. We were told the dam had big fishes, some as big as around 50 kg.
At a turn on the road, we were baffled to see the duplicate of ‘Angel Dawn’ with the same shade and look coming opposite us. Both belonged to the same owner.
We then passed through beautiful coffee plantations. We could see tea estates and a tea factory in the distant. Malakkappara was not very far from there. On one side lay the upper Sholayar Dam. Passing a church and a Murugan temple,the bus finally reached Malakkappara. Angel Dawn would go till Valppara. We planned to see around Malakkappara till the bus came back.
Our first destination was the upper Sholayar dam. Upon reaching there we were told visitors were not allowed inside the dam because the steps to go inside the dam were weak. There was a small garden and a park in front of the dam. The row-houses of estate workers were seen far away. There was a cottage in the hill top where the manager of the estate stayed. In the same direction there was a building painted in yellow, which we came to understand was a school.
A little along the Valppara route we saw eucalyptus, tea and vetiver farms. In the nearby area there was a Ganpati temple. We came to know that the temple was built after several accidents had happened in the area. On one side of the road was the catchment area of Sholayar dam. We couldn’t explore much because it was time for Angel Dawn to return. The bus would reach Malakkappara at about 1.15 pm. Missing the trip would mean no return to Chalakkudy that day.Time was 12.40 pm when we stepped into a hotel to have lunch.There was a newspaper lying on the table which had the place name written on it. The thought that it was the same newspaper Nebeesa entrusted Angel Dawn to deliver in the morning brought a smile on our face.
Angel Dawn had already reached Malakkappara.We knew most of the passengers from the morning trip. The only additions in the return journey perhaps were two school-going children and three sacks of wheat, rice and fish.The return journey thus began. The Adivasi labourers waited at the same place where they alighted. Remembering our enthusiasm in the morning to have a glimpse of elephants, they asked us whether we could spot any and we replied in the negative. As Angel Dawn moved ahead crisscrossing through the path blanketed in green, they continued their chat; this time the stories were on elephants.
(Translated by Renitha Raveendran)
Malakkappara
Route : Chalakudy-Athirapally-Malakkappara-Valparai
One of the most beautiful routes in South India. Passing amidst thick evergreen forest offers a chance to see wild animals.
How to reach
By road : Chalakudy is well-connected to all other cities. Most of the buses plying between the Calicut-Trivandrum route will stop in Chalakudy.
By Rail : Chalakudy
Bus Timings
4.50 am, 6.30 am ( from Chalakkudy private stand)
( The last bus from Malakkapara departs at 1.15 pm)
Sights
Dream World , Thumboormuzhy Dam, Butterfly Park, Silver Storm, Athirapily waterfalls, Charpa Waterfalls,
Vazhachal Waterfalls, Poringalkuthu Dam, Solaiyar Dam, Malakkappara Tea Factory, Upper Sholayar Dam
Tips
This road is suitable for cars and bikes. If you are planning a ride start early in the moring. Be alert about wild animals. The road which is very narrow at some places demands careful driving.
Never travel along in the night
Stay
STD code : 0480
Athirappilly Residency, Ph: 2747097
Meadows International Ph: 2710070
Kallelys Park Inn Ph: 2706777
